Aid for Gaza | Nighttime shelling of the "Sumud Flotilla"
It was supposed to be the day of the grand departure – toward the Gaza Strip. Dozens of ships were moored ready to depart on Sunday in the small port of Sidi Bousaid. Curious visitors on the waterfront tried to count the boats anchored in the harbor. The idyllic suburb of the Tunisian capital has only been known to human rights activists for a few days.
Young people in unusually casual attire stroll through the alleys, alongside groups of tourists from all-inclusive hotels. Two worlds collide that couldn't be more different. Some seek relaxation and a touch of luxury, while the ship crews from 44 countries are engaged in intense conversation. They are on their way to a war zone where the suffering is immeasurable.
Reports of displacement and more than 60,000 Palestinians killed reach the smartphones of souvenir vendors in Sidi Bousaid every day. Since Yasser Arafat's Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) moved its headquarters to Tunisian exile for several years in 1982, Palestine has been the country's number one foreign policy issue. There is widespread sympathy for events in the Middle East.
In Libya and Egypt, there are certainly critical comments about the militancy of Hamas or the corruption of the Palestinian Authority. Not so in Sidi Bousaid, where any criticism is considered a capitulation to the "colonial project" of the "Zionist entity," as Israel is called here.
The traders look at the activists respectfully. The fact that so many Europeans are among them is surprising. The convoy of ships departed from Barcelona at the end of August. On Saturday, it arrived in Tunisia. The crews, already tanned from the sea voyage, enjoy the view of the Gulf of Tunis, just like the tourists. The "Global Sumud Fleet" is anchored there. It is by far the largest act of solidarity since the Israelis began sealing off the Gaza Strip from all directions 17 years ago.
Not only the crews, but also the vessels of the "flotilla" are very diverse. They include small, open fishing boats, but also sailing ships and large ocean-going wooden vessels from Barcelona, Catania, or Zarzis, which are intended to confuse the Israeli army simply by their sheer numbers.
Because some ships still need to be resolved due to technical issues, the departure is postponed. The organizers quickly turn Sunday into a day of getting to know the local community.
"I don't know if we can lure many curious onlookers away from the beach on such a beautiful day," Wael Naouar, one of the organizers of the "Global Sumud" convoy, had doubted the day before. But the next morning, the waterfront road was already at a standstill. Cars were backed up for miles. Passengers drove at walking pace, waving Palestinian flags, shouting "Free Palestine!", or enjoying the crowds – a welcome respite from the economic crisis. Many families in Tunisia were already facing serious financial worries by the middle of the month. Tens of thousands of onlookers came to the white and blue city by the sea and demonstrated loudly for the starving residents of Gaza. The Arabic word "Sumud" stands for steadfastness and endurance.
Greta Thunberg stands on a small stage, closely surrounded by other organizers and crew members. The Swedish environmental activist keeps a low profile. But together with Tunisian Wael Naouar, she embodies the spirit of the project. Both operate quietly in the background. They seem to be the driving force behind the Global Sumud meeting in Tunis, even though other activists are constantly in front of the cameras.
Thunberg's messageBack in June, Greta Thunberg and an experienced crew attempted to reach Gaza by yacht. The venture ended in an Israeli prison, deportation to France, but also garnered considerable media attention.
In the spring, Wael Naouar, together with friends and the largest Tunisian trade union, the UGGT, organized a convoy of vehicles to reach the Rafah border crossing in Egypt. Authorities in eastern Libya stopped the convoy, consisting of 150 buses and vehicles with participants from all over North Africa. Upon returning from the failed attempt, he was met with a wave of respect in Tunis.
For two years, Tunisians have been following the Israeli army's atrocities against civilians, mostly on their mobile phones. Many people feel powerless. Those in power fear that expressions of solidarity on the streets could turn into social movements, like the Arab Spring 14 years ago. But the Sumud convoy is still being welcomed by the authorities in Tunis.
On Sunday, Wael Naouar will be on stage with Greta Thunberg. With her slight figure, the Swede looks like a supporting actress next to the tall, storm-tested participants from Spain and Portugal.
Until she grabs the microphone. Her voice effortlessly rises above the background roar of the crowd: "The Israeli killing machine continues to starve people for the purpose of ethnic cleansing," Thunberg claims. "Global media reports on our Sumud project, but where is the global media when it comes to the daily horror in Gaza—when it comes to arresting war criminals?"
Thunberg's anger is reflected in many faces in the crowd. The celebratory mood vanishes for a moment, and the few Western media representatives in the crowd, in particular, receive accusatory or questioning glances. "The governments and companies of our countries are also complicit in the genocide. Be human!" Thunberg shouts, stepping off. The climate activist's speech makes it clear: this flotilla has more than just a humanitarian mission. It is also a political statement against the Israeli government, as well as Western governments and media, which the organizers blame for the Gaza war.
Shortly before the scheduled departure, the situation escalated unexpectedly: On the night of Tuesday, a boat anchored in the fleet was attacked. Peace activist Miguel Duerte was keeping watch on the so-called "family ship" when he spotted a drone four to five meters above him. "First, I heard the loud buzzing, then my colleagues and I saw it fly to the stern, pause briefly, and drop a bomb," the Portuguese citizen reported at a spontaneously convened press conference on Tuesday morning in front of the Municipal Theatre in the heart of Tunis. Dozens of journalists and hundreds of pro-Palestine supporters had gathered there.
Outrage in TunisThe attack caused widespread outrage in Tunisia within hours. "We managed to quickly extinguish the fire," said Duerte, who was on board the Portuguese-flagged ship with five fellow soldiers at the time of the attack. Footage from fixed surveillance cameras on neighboring boats shows the fiery trail of a missile and the explosion described by Duerte.
The Interior Ministry in Tunis initially reacted cautiously. They hadn't seen any drones, they said in an early morning statement – perhaps a discarded cigarette had started the fire. Wael Naouar called on the National Guard to conduct a more thorough investigation: "Our country's sovereignty was attacked in the port of Sidi Bousaid," he said, suggesting that the attack came from abroad. This must be fully investigated.
Thiago Avila, one of the flotilla's initiators, reiterated to the cheers of the crowd outside the theater that they would not be deterred by the attack on the fleet's lead ship. After all, it was not the first attack on attempts to support Gaza from the sea: "This is the 38th ship to be attacked during the 17-year blockade. Simply because it is part of a humanitarian, peaceful mission."
Another attack occurred overnight into Wednesday. An Egyptian activist saw a glowing object fall onto the British-flagged boat "Alma." Again, there were no injuries. Once again, the fire was quickly extinguished. But by now, it was clear to all participants that their opponents would be prepared to stop the Sumud convoy by any means necessary, even on the high seas.
Whether Israeli drones were actually responsible for the fires on board, as suspected, will probably never be determined, partly because the authorities quickly rejected this version of events. But one thing is certain: the activists now have the often-missed attention of the global public.
They expect to be attacked by special forces even before they reach the territorial waters of the Gaza Strip. Israel's Security Minister Ben Gvir has already announced that he will arrest the flotilla participants and treat them as terrorists. "That would be illegal," one participant emphasized, "and we will ensure that this crime is at least carried out in full view of the world."
Despite the attacks, the flotilla of more than 60 ships planned to set sail for Gaza on Wednesday.
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